円山の第一鳥居近くにある鮭の専門店「丸亀」。読みは「まるかめ」なので濁らない。創業は1935年だから、今年で90年になる。「秋さけ」「時不知（時さけ）」「紅さけ」「桜ます」「鮭児」など、北海道産を中心に、直接産地へ出向いて選別した高品質のものだけを自社の熟練した職人が一尾ずつ塩蔵（えんぞう）加工する。同じ原料、同じ材料を同じ方法で作っても作り手によって味が変わるので、そのさじ加減やあんばいを大切にしているそう。今回、切り身のデザインをリニューアルするにあたって、過去に作られたさまざまなマークや文字などを見せてもらった。その中に亀の文字が円で囲まれたものがあって、なんだか惹かれた。新しく何かをデザインするより、これを旗印にするのが、長く続けてきた丸亀に最適な気がして大きく配置することに。たぶん何度も使われるうちに劣化して、文字のフォルムもくずれているんだけど、そこに味があっていいよね。それこそ
「いいあんばい」ってやつだ。まずは第一弾の桜ますに続いて、他の商品も変わっていく予定。みんなに「亀印」を覚えてもらう作戦ははじまったばかり。

Near the first torii gate of Maruyama stands a salmon specialty shop called Marukame. It is pronounced ma-ru-ka-me—without voicing the “k.” Founded in 1935, this year marks its 90th anniversary. Focusing primarily on salmon from Hokkaido—such as autumn salmon, tokishirazu (also known as toki-sake), sockeye salmon, cherry salmon, and keiji—Marukame selects only the finest fish by traveling directly to the producing regions. Each salmon is then carefully processed one by one through traditional salting by the company’s own skilled craftsmen. Even when using the same fish, the same ingredients, and the same methods, the flavor can change depending on the person who makes it, so great importance is placed on balance and subtle adjustment—the right anbai, as they call it.
For this renewal of the sliced salmon packaging design, I was shown various marks and lettering that had been used in the past. Among them was a character for “turtle” enclosed in a circle, and for some reason it immediately caught my eye. Rather than designing something entirely new, it felt right to adopt this mark as a banner—something that truly suited Marukame, a business that has continued for so long. So we decided to place it boldly. It has likely been used many times over the years, worn down, with the shape of the letters slightly distorted—but that, too, gives it character. That imperfection feels just right. You might call it a perfect anbai. Starting with cherry salmon in this first release, other products will follow. The plan to have everyone remember the “turtle mark” has only just begun.